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By Heather• 18 Apr 2018
Ever wanted to dine in the seat of power and feel the tingle of democracy at your fingertips? Well now you can, courtesy of Logan Brown, now at the helm of the kitchen at Bellamy’s in the Beehive.
Be sure to book, and impart all guest names at the main entrance, but once you're through the formalities it's straight up to level three and the dining part can get underway.
On the night we dined at Bellamy's there was a large group hosted by an MP sitting alongside us, but with adequate separation, no state secrets were revealed.
We began by checking out the drinks and noted a good range of local and national tipples, with the beers organised into low alcohol, lager, pilsner and so on, and the wines listed from light through to full-bodied and sweet to dry under each varietal. This was brilliantly helpful.
The menu follows the à la carte tradition, with three options for each course. If dining with a group of 10 or more, Bellamy's will offer a $55 or $75 set menu.
We started with the complimentary house sourdough (divine), then moved onto the heirloom tomato entrée with tomato bavarois, horopito, basil and rēwena parmesan crisp. I was so delighted by this tasty dish that I clean forgot to take a photograph.
After that was the spinach and ricotta gnocchi with salt-baked beetroot, arugula and hazelnuts (tender and textured) and the pan-roasted market fish with turnip broth, sea lettuce, Kawakawa, togarashi and shiitake mushrooms (fresh and light).
And finally, the buttermilk and coconut panna cotta with Black-boy peach and almond crumb (silky smooth), and the gingerbread and diplomat cream mille-feuille with feijoa ice cream and caramel (lovely flavours).
The dishes are carefully and comprehensively put together using local and foraged ingredients. The team takes great care in crafting each component, such as the turnips processed three ways – dehydrated, charred and fresh – to create a smoky broth.
The price is excellent for the quality presented – entrée and desserts $15/16, and mains mostly $30-$35 – and considering the iconic setting. There’s absolutely no mistaking the Logan Brown expertise at play here.
Lunch: Monday to Friday, 12pm–2pm; Dinner: Tuesday to Friday, 5.30pm–8.30pm.
Once an uninspiring thoroughfare, Lombard Laneway is a treasure trove of places to shop, eat and drink.