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By Heather• 9 Sep 2015
With their recent Flaxen Feathers dish win for Visa Wellington On a Plate, and two hats awarded in the Cuisine NZ Good Food Awards again (one of only two restaurants outside of Auckland with two), Logan Brown excels year in and year out.
But quietly through the last 6-9 months, they’ve also sliced and diced their menus a little, to ensure there’s something for everyone. Alongside the specialty dining they now offer:
Wow. So I decided to truck along and see what a mid-week casual dinner might feel like now.
The drinks menu is a little easier to navigate. Beers by the category and wines by the glass are up front (most of those only in the $30’s and $40’s if buying by the bottle), with the cellar wines a page or two over. The cocktail list has also had a makeover and there’s a good range of affordable non-alcoholics. I can thoroughly recommend ‘The Bank’s Closed’ cocktail.
Next came complimentary house-baked breads and local Olivo oil, both delicious. Do keep some for mopping up entrée or main sauces and don’t eat it all if you’re eyeing up a number of courses (I discovered to my detriment later!).
The entrees still felt a little more complex with ingredients like salmon biltong and yuzu marmalade, and sit around the $27-$29 range. The standout on the duck and pheasant entrée was the pheasant sausage, and the standout on the pumpkin pappardelle with roasted beets, local walnuts and truffle was the pappardelle itself. Do tell the wait staff whether you want a fast or slow experience (we ended up doing three courses in a little over an hour), and know that an entrée is reasonably filling.
The mains were both delicious and well executed. The steak was tender and cooked exactly medium rare, with onion rings that were pleasingly crisp and soft, while the crispy skinned gurnard on white asparagus and preserved lemon risotto was fresh and gorgeously springy. And the side of wagyu fat potatoes with habanero mayo had sighs of pleasure arising from the other side of the table (I was trying to pace myself by that point).
Alas I couldn’t fit dessert, but the rhubarb jelly donuts I snuck a spoonful of were so good I’m planning how soon I can get back to have one all to myself. With the accompanying Zubrowska Apple Fizz cocktail of course. They were fantastic little bursts of flavor and texture, with apple crumble ice cream I’m still dreaming about (I may be a teensy weensy ice cream fan...).
Although it might feel intimidating to push through those double doors, it’s really a comfortable and easy place to eat with excellent service, high quality food, and no problem whatsoever to pop by just for something brief or something simple.
Go on, I dare you.
Georgia meets maker and baker Brigid of Milk Crate cafe.