Wellington

Ryan McArthur: a local guide to craft beer

Wellington loves its beer, but with so much choice, it begs the question: where does one wet their whistle?

Ryan McArthur, Beervana Festival Director and local guide to craft beer in Wellington.

Ryan McArthur, Beervana Festival Director.

Ryan McArthur is a knowledgeable man. He knows what’s on tap where and what’s quietly fermenting in the city’s vats. As Beervana Festival Director, he understands better than anyone what makes Wellington’s beer scene so special. Who better to point us in the direction of a pint? 

Out and about 

When the sun is shining, you’ll find Ryan getting his vitamin D out on the deck of one of the city’s many bars. “Garage Project on Leeds Street is a sun trap,” he says of his favourite haunt. With a microbrewery set up in-house, Garage Project has a groovy industry feel and serves up some very recognisable Wellington beers. “One of the most celebrated beers is Garage Project’s ‘Chance, Love and Magic.’ I think it won gold at the Belgium beer awards.” 

When the cooler weather rolls in and calls for something cosy, Ryan heads to Cuba Street. “I’m a big fan of Dee’s Place.” Found in a cosy basement, Dee’s Place has the feel of an American dive bar. In a past life, it was a nightclub, but nowadays there’s a new spot that Ryan heads to for a music fix — Meow Nui. “I’ve seen some really great shows there. I love the fact that it's so shallow; it’s not just a square box.” 

When it comes to a favourite single brew, Ryan can’t pick. “I’m a big fan of just really well-made simple lagers, especially German-style ones. Garage Project does a really great one, Heyday Brewery does one that’s in a style called Märzen, which is an Oktoberfest beer. But the answer is generally the one that’s in my hand.” 

When stocking up, Ryan heads to Regional Wines. “They have the biggest selection in Wellington. If you want a more curated approach, Monkfish on Vivian Street is great.” 

City limits 

Home for Ryan is over the hill in Featherston. He believes the Wairarapa brewing scene is growing and, like its fruity cousin, the wine scene, is punching well above its weight. “The Horseshoe Taproom in Masterton have put in a brewery and has an incredible lineup of beers. They did a beer that won the people’s choice at Beervana; the Wairarapa IPA, so they’re one to watch.” 

Staying out of the city, Ryan reckons the coast, all the way up to Waikanae, is worth a visit for their beer. “I’m a big fan of Long Beach, and attached to them is North End Brewing... In Paraparaumu, Duncan’s Brewing have a taproom which we head to whenever we’re out there.” 

A festival attendee dances at a pop-up performance at Beerana.

A brewer’s secret 

Wellington’s beer scene is large, creative and knows how to have fun. A good example is a brewing competition held in 2023. Organised by NIWA and Beervana, the winner had a newly discovered crustacean named after them. “It was one of those Wellington-only stories,” says Ryan. “We have a ghost shrimp named after Beervana called ‘Vulcanocalliax beervana’. It’s found off the coast of the Wairarapa.” 

Ryan pulls up his sleeve and shows off a tattoo of the said shrimp that an artist at Beervana did for him. “That’s the extended beer culture. Good beer, especially in Wellington, is normal. That’s what Beervana does, all that weird theatrical stuff, the music, the tattooing. That’s what makes the scene special.”

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