Your guide to Kilbirnie and Lyall Bay

Let the smell of salt and sand blowing in the wind wake up all your senses at this iconic Wellington beach. Still need coffee? No worries. Maranui Café is a quintessential Lyall Bay experience, housed in one of two local surf lifesaving clubs. The retro interior and ocean views will make your morning brew taste extra delicious. For something thicker, the milkshakes are a real hit. The quirky facades and well-stocked cabinets continue at Queen Sally’s Diamond Deli and Onepū. Closer to Kilbirnie, L Bay Café has a classic Kiwiana menu with beautiful latte art and space for a larger group. 

Lyall Bay Junction offers a unique shopping experience showcasing independent businesses. Wonderland Chocolate specialises in delicious plant-based milk chocolate and caramels. The mini factory shop is worth visiting for the aroma alone. If savoury kai is more your thing, The Polish Sausage Company will sort you out with flavourful meats. Nearby, the independent gallery REAL Aotearoa showcases local pounamu and hand-blown glass. 

Named after a town in Scotland, Kilbirnie is a melting pot of international cuisine. Kopi Kadai make authentic Malaysian food, while Buba Café offers a crowd-pleasing menu with a Lebanese twist. On Coutts Street, three specialty food stores sit in a row. Firstly, A Taste of Greece does what it says on the tin. Buy unique Greek products or sample a spinach and feta spanakopita straight out of the oven. Next door, stock your pantry at The Spice Emporium, then dig into Scheckter’s Deli’s famous Reuben sandwich. Around the corner, enjoy a meal that's good for you and the whole planet at The Leafy Stop plant-based café.

Before commencing any adventures, stock up on snacks at Commonsense Organics in Kilbirnie. Now you’re ready to visit The Children’s Bookshop and choose a book for a little one in your life. After shopping, tick off some gentle exercise and harbour scenery with a stroll along Evans Bay Parade. Starting at Lyall Bay, you can also walk or run around the South Coast. To up the intensity, hire a pickleball court at Akau Tangi, or do what the bay is famous for and go catch a wave. Real Surf will sort you out with all the gear, and Wellington Surf Lessons is perfect for beginners. 

On the hunt for a good beverage? Parrotdog Bar is a relaxed spot to try a local beer. Choose from the revolving drinks on tap and be sure to nab a seat outside if the sun is shining. If gin or whisky is more your style, you’ll love Southward Distilling. The small-batch distillery with plenty of spirit has a tasting room at Lyall Bay Junction. Next door, Puku Pies can tide you over. 

Settle in for a long meal at one of the many stellar institutions in Lyall Bay. Hotel Catalina features front-row plane watching and simple but well-executed food and drink. At The Botanist, you’ll find innovative vegan dishes like eggplant steak and battered banana blossom ‘fish’. Speaking of fish, if you’re craving some classic fish and chips, Seaview Takeaways is the place to go. Sit on the chairs outside or take the paper-wrapped goodness to the beach for the full experience.

Hire a bike   

Hire a bike at Switched on Bikes in the central city and follow the flat path around the bays to Kilbirnie. From there, it’s only a few more minutes of cycling to reach Lyall Bay Beach.   

Public transport   

Bus routes numbered 3 and 36 can deliver you straight to Kilbirnie and Lyall Bay, with plenty to observe along the way. 

Self-drive   

Be sure to take the scenic route from Oriental Parade around the bays. On the edge of Kilbirnie, there’s a giant needle art sculpture named the Zephyrometer, doubling as a wind gauge. From Kilbirnie, all roads south lead to the beach.