Keeping you in the soup loop: where’s the best ramen, pho, and laksa in Wellington

The only thing more heated than the flavours are the arguments from locals about where to find the best example. From an authentic Malaysian laksa to spicy Japanese ramen, or a healthy Vietnamese pho — here are some places you should check out.

When it comes to ramen, it’s all about the broth (‘bout the broth, no treble). In Wellington, you’re likely to encounter a few versions — a clear, light chicken broth, a rich pork and chicken broth, and tonkotsu. Also included are noodles and seemingly endless combinations of proteins and veggies. The Ramen Shop started in Newtown in 2013, and it has spread to Karori and Johnsonville since then. There are more than a dozen ramen dishes on the menu, including Black Garlic Tonkotsu, Gyu, and Paitan.

Kajiken Wellington in Woodward Street is famed for its Abura Soba (ramen where a soy-based sauce and oil replace the broth). The shop opened in 2010 in Japan and has spread the trend around the world. You get to choose the spice and toppings so every visit can be bespoke. Matxoi is hidden above Cable Car Lane off Lambton Quay. Just look out for the pastel pink and green décor. Matxoi adds a matcha twist to its ramen — a rare find in the city.

Don’t settle for a faux phở. The best has beef or chicken bones simmered for hours with spices like ginger, star anise, cardamom, and cinnamon. The resulting clear liquid is Vietnam’s favourite soup. Also in the bowl are noodles, fresh herbs, and meat like brisket, rare beef, or shredded poached chicken. Pho Viet has two restaurants in Wellington — one in the central city on Dixon Street and another in Newtown. Accompany your Pho Tai (rare beef) or Pho Chin (beef brisket) with banh mi baguettes and fresh spring rolls.

Further along Dixon Street, you’ll find The Old Quarter. Woven lanterns and an old wall-mounted bicycle are reminiscent of Hanoi’s historic Old Quarter. Don’t be fooled by the modest surroundings at Fisherman’s Plate on Bond Street. It’s one of the original Vietnamese restaurants in Wellington. With more than 25 years of serving pho, the chef knows what to do. 

N.B ‘pho’ should rhyme with ‘fuh’.

Associated with Malaysia first and foremost, laksa can also be found in Southeast Asian countries like Indonesia and Singapore. It’s a spicy noodle soup often made from coconut broth. The base paste includes galangal, dried shrimp, and candlenuts. Also included are egg noodles, chicken, fried shallots, sprouts, and coriander. The resulting flavours are spicy and fragrant.

There are many amazing Malaysian restaurants in Wellington. KK Malaysia on Ghuznee is known for its curry and seafood laksa. Rasa on Cuba Street mixes Malay and Indian dishes on its menu. The dark red walls inside add to the warmth of their aromatic coconut laksa. Little Penang on Victoria Street, Istana Malaysia on Allen Street, and Aunty Mena’s on Cuba Street all have devoted followings as well.

The city has a ladle full of other excellent soups as well. For Suan La Fen (Sichuan Hot & Sour Soup), Taste of Home on Vivian Street is a good start. Their homemade chilli oil and hand-pulled noodles entice lots of locals. KC Café on Courtenay Place attracts many a hungry punter. The BBQ Pork Wonton Noodle Soup is a long-time winner.

For French Onion Soup, head to fine dining institution Boulcott Street Bistro. Le Bouillon Bel Air on Tory Street is a newer addition, but its French onion soup is equally good. There are two excellent exponents of Matzo Ball soup, and they are a block away from each other. Pickle & Pie on Lombard Lane and The Bond Street Deli can both treat you to the Ashkenazi speciality.